It was a not-summer summer day. The sky was milk-white, swirling its chilled brand of gloom over the city. It was so chilly, in fact, that I was forced to wear tights—tights! In July! But there I was in Hollywood in my tights and a chunky sweater and a few minutes to spare, so with teeth chattering I walked the few blocks over to one of my favorite strip malls.
At first glance, it’s nothing special. As you can see they have the three federally-mandated LA strip mall staples: liquor store, cleaners and nail salon. The signage also denotes there is a dentist on the premises as well as the possibility of “pets,” although in this neighborhood that could mean something else entirely. “Cocktail” may be shorthand for a bar called The Woods, which used to be a tiki bar called the Lava Lounge. My friend Emily and I went to their fire sale when they closed down and ended up buying large bags of jungle creature swizzle sticks and tiki-patterned napkins, so if I ever serve you a drink at my house chances are good it will include a pink plastic monkey hanging from the rim.
And at the top of this urban totem pole, the shining star of this strip mall, the only real reason to come here: A cone precariously propped up against a shamrock, signifying the world of Mashti Malone’s Ice Cream.
The sign itself is part of ice cream history. As the story goes, Mashti bought his ice cream parlor when it was called Mugsy Malone’s and couldn’t afford to change the entire sign, making for the puzzlingly-pleasant, Iranian-Irish mixed message. Inside there is a dual personality as well. On one side are all the flavors you would require to assemble a Baskin Robbins-style cone, but I advise you to stick to the far right side of the case, where you’ll find the real gems. Over here, you’ll be entranced by the mysterious-looking starchy threads of “herbal snow,” the earthy pink of pomegranate sorbet, and not one, but three fragrant rosewater varietals.
My two personal favorites are perhaps two of the most unusual flavors you’ll dip your tongue into (but quite standard for Persian palettes). One one side, orange blossom’s perfumed kiss tastes like LA smells in the winter when all the citrus trees bloom, and is studded with meaty pistachios. And the companion flavor has to be saffron rosewater, where the aromatic rose flavor is cut with a neon yellow savory glow. Like a burst of sunshine from a surprising place on a day when you least expect it.
Where to find this (plus how to get there on public transportation) at Gelatobaby’s GeLAtomap!
